The way the current Xbox distribution system works is that we have both physical media (Game DVDs) and digital downloads. These are disparate distribution methods that have their own pros and cons, do not coordinate with each other, and have their own issues with DRM.

Physical Media System

With physical media, gaming is straightforward. You put in the disc, you play the game. There exists one copy on the disc which can be played anywhere on any console, traded and sold like any other physical object. But therein lies the rub. Because it is a physical object, it can only exist in one place. If you lend the game to a friend, sell the game, lose the game, or damage the game, you can no longer play the game.

With the Xbox 360, Microsoft introduced a feature in which you could install a game to your hard drive from the disc. How then do you keep people from installing a game and giving to friends to install for free? You require that the disc be in the drive in order to play. This is fair enough. It’s essentially the same physical system as before, only now you’re saving on load times and protecting your disc (because it only spins on initial startup). Even if you install the game, if you sell the disc or lend it to a friend, you can’t play the game.

Digital Distribution System

The Xbox 360 also allowed for digital downloads of games straight into the system. Starting with DLC and Indie/Arcade games (because these were not offered on discs), the Xbox Live Marketplace eventually added full Xbox games for download. These games were tied to your Xbox Live account and your personal system with the use of license files. Another issue then arose of how to manage games that you bought. Lending games was now out of the question, but what did you do if you wanted to play your games at a friend’s house, or if you got a new Xbox? You’d have to first install the game on the other Xbox, and then transfer the license. This was similar to the physical media system in that you can play the game anywhere, but it effectively exists in one location, namely, wherever the license was stored.

The benefit of this system is that you no longer are bound by physical media. If you want a game, you can just download it straight from the Marketplace without having to go to a brick and mortar store or waiting for an Amazon delivery. You also have the benefit of having all your games in one place so you don’t have to search for discs or worry about scratches or shelf space or anything like that.

The drawback of this system is that it’s time consuming to play games anywhere else. You have to install the game and transfer licenses, which is fine if you only play on one system, but if you want to play at a friend’s house, you’re better off just taking your whole Xbox with you. In addition, you can no longer resell games. The games and licenses are tied to your account, so you can no longer lend a game to a friend or sell/trade a game. How then do you reconcile these two systems?

Xbox One and new DRM

With the Xbox One, games will be installed to your system and tied to your account. This immediately solves the two drawbacks of the previous systems. You can pass discs around to friends or sell/trade discs, but you can also play games freely without the discs. This system is already reminiscent of the Steam platform. You can install games anywhere, and since they’re tied to your account and not your computer, you can play anywhere as long as you just log in (if the game is installed). This new system bridges the gap between physical media and digital media by incorporating one into the other. After you install the game from a disc, it essentially becomes indistinguishable from a downloaded game (whereas before, an installed game still required the disc to play).

This obviously has some problems. Since the disc is no longer required like before with Xbox installed games, this suggests that someone can just pass around one disc for everyone install and play for free. Is there any way then to disallow this?

In addition to linking games to your account (in that you can play a game anywhere as long as you sign in), what Microsoft has done is require players to pay a fee (of a not yet disclosed amount) in order to install a game on another console (with another account). This means that if you want to lend a game disc to a friend, you can do so (and still play the game on your own machine) but your friend would have to pay to play it themselves. We don’t know yet whether this fee would be the same as a full price game, but we do know that the other player is essentially buying a copy of the game themself.

What does this mean for used games? Essentially the same thing as for downloaded games (cf. Steam). The market would cease to exist, presumably. Microsoft has stated that they’re designing a kind of trade-in or resell system, but have not yet released any other information about that.

This new system seems to support those who favor digital downloads and have reliable internet connectivity (which to assume a great deal of players have is not unreasonable).

In short, this is the new system in a nutshell:

Pros

• Faster load times
• Minimal disc noise (from lack of spinning)
• Not have to worry about discs at all (because you can play without them)
• Easily access your games (without having to switch out discs)
• Play your games anywhere (just have to log in)
• Not have to transfer licenses from different machines

Cons

• Cannot lend games
• Requires internet connection (supposedly you get 1 day of offline activity before the XB1 stops working, but always-on is a separate issue)
• Cannot resell games
• Must buy a new license to install a game from a used disc

Indeed this looks like the used game market will be taking a hit, but we’ll have to see what Microsoft says about their resell system. On a different note, though, it’s worth pointing out that this model closely resembles that of Steam, which has already proven itself to be a very successful distribution platform, lacking physical media and a used game market entirely.

There do indeed exist benefits of having this new distribution method, however these benefits and drawbacks are only worth what you make of them. Do you think the benefits of this system warrant the DRM for used games? Personally, I think yes for now. And who knows? Maybe in the future we’ll be able to download trial licenses for games, or limited term “rental licenses” for used games. That’s purely my own hope, but it’s not impossible.

That is my $.02.

—-
El Ratoncito (The Little Mouse)

“Cállate, cállate!”
dijo por último,
“Consideremos la
alegación.”

Lo que parece es
(desentrañándolo)
no le dio daño a
ese ratón.

“Íquiti, Íquiti”
dijo ratón con su
rueda de queso. ¿Yo
tengo razón?

“Todo que dije fue,”
(desesperándose):
“¡Voy a matarlo el
pinche cabrón!”

—-
-Translated-
The Little Mouse

“Quiet, quiet!”
he said finally,
“Let’s consider
the allegation.”

What it appears is
(getting to the bottom of things)
he did not hurt
that mouse.

“Squeak, squeak!”
said the mouse with your
wheel of cheese.
Am I right?

“All that I said was:”
(filling with despair)
“I’m gonna kill that
%!~$&# ?&#^%!!”

This is a form that is
lexolinguistically
challenging, that’s why I
hold it so dear.

-

Pittery-pattery
Meaningless syllables,
That’s what you write on the
very first line.

If you get writer’s block,
semi-relatedly,
any nonsensical
rambling is fine.

-

Clippity-clappety
This is the subject line.
Always the second in
stanza the first.

Rules, regulations, and
Predictability’s
why all these verses sound
super rehearsed.

-

Blibbety-blabbity
Meter and prosody
Tougher to master than
trying to learn.

Stanzas consisting of
Tri-double-dactyly
ending with choriamb.
Now it’s your turn!

-

Siddily-soddily
Line-ending melody
Not so constrained that it
eats up your time

Both of the choriambs
characteristically
happen to end with a
masculine rhyme.

-

Riggedy-raggedy
Hexasyllabic rule:
This is the last bit of
knowledge, my friend.

You should start brainstorming
sesquipedalian
words for the second verse.
This is the end.

This idea actually sprouts from a common technique used to crochet circles. Imagine a circle made of discrete stitches. As you crochet around the circle, you’ll eventually have to make more stitches along the circumference if you want it to lie flat (i.e., radius gets bigger, you need to place more stitches around the outside. The places where you create more stitches are called increases). If you place your increases at the same point on the circle every time (e.g. 0 degrees, 60 degrees, 120 degrees, 180 degrees, 240 degrees, and 300 degrees), it’ll be very easy to remember where to place them, but your shape will end up a hexagon. For small numbers of rows, the stitches will bunch up and look like a circle, but if you continue further and further out, you’ll see the delineations. I’ve played on this effect to recreate a level from Super Hexagon.

Time Spent:
Two weekends (marathoning It’s Always Sunny and Parks & Rec on Netflix!)

Materials Used:
18 skeins of Lamb’s Pride Bulky yarn in Cream, Victorian Pink and Lotus Pink
Size M crochet hook

Total Cost of Materials:
~$200

Pictures!

Super Hexagon Blanket!

Draped over the couch

It’s very warm!

This was my biggest project I’ve ever crocheted, and one of the most fun! Now it’s time to rest my hands.

“Talk to Gina at the front desk for payment information,” says the doctor as he heads back to his office.

A while later I’m on the street walking back home. I cough. I cover my mouth and keep walking. The injection should take effect shortly. The doctor’s voice echoes through my head. I cough again. My eyes start to water. I pass by a young couple as another coughing fit hits me. I turn my head to them and cough directly in their faces. Tears roll down my face as I hand them a pamphlet, sobbing. The large caption in front reads: “Feeling ill? We can help. -Viratech Pharmaceuticals.”

Deep in my heart I want to apologize, but I have a family to support, and the young couple has already run off, disgusted and cursing. Besides, what can I do? A job’s a job, and viral marketing is all the rage this year.

The machine in front of them let out a loud beep.

Finally the voice spoke again. “I hope that everything will work out better next time.”

“What does he mean by that, Jake?” asked Sharon. She got no response.

“If anyone’s listening to this, it works. I’ve found my second chance. I have to do this,” said the voice, the static from the recorder getting stronger.

Sitting across from each other, Jake and Sharon listened to the recorded voice of their friend Ian. It spoke of complex science they couldn’t understand, and was interspersed with bouts of static. This was the last clue they had of the whereabouts of their friend.

Jake reached for the tape recorder and pressed the play/pause button. Sharon sat with her arms around her knees, staring back at Jake.

Holding the case in his hands, Jake examined the interior. It was empty save for a tape recorder and a peculiar looking device attached to the inside. It was covered in wires and electrical components which cradled a single button. Jake pressed it, but nothing happened.

“Still no luck,” said Jake, “I hope Ian’s all right, this was all I could find in his office.”

“What about his advisor? He still hasn’t seen Ian since that storm last weekend?”

“No one that I talked to has seen him recently,” said Jake, placing the case on the table between them, “I thought this might be helpful.” The light shining through the window bounced off the metal facets of the case exterior and danced in Sharon’s anxious eyes.

“What is that?” asked Sharon.

Jake walked in carrying a small metal case.

Catullus

Materials:

450 yards DK weight yarn
Size G crochet hook

Abbreviations:

Sl st – Slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – Half double crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (two hdc in one)
sk – skip a stitch
make finger – chain 12, insert hook into third chain from hook, 10 dc, sk 2, join with sl st.

Directions:

-Main Body
The main body is a trapezoid shape with a three eyelet rows that starts from the smaller edge of the trapezoid.
Chain 163 plus 2 for turning chain (doesn’t count as first stitch.)
This pattern uses a turning chain of 2
Row 1: hdc all
Row 2-3: inc, hdc to last st, inc, turn
Row 4: inc, (ch1, sk1, hdc) to last two stitches, ch1, sk1, inc.
Row 5-8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 4
Row 10-13: repeat row 2
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15-18: repeat row 2
Do not turn at the end of row 18.
Row 19: Put 18 sc along the edge of the scarf, 3 sc in the first stitch of the starting chain, 1 sc along each of the starting chain stitches, 3 stitches in the last chain, then 18 stitches up the other side. Turn.

-Start fingers
Finger row: (Make finger, 2 sl st)x4, make finger. 1 sc, 3 sc in corner st, 1 sc, slip to next st. (Make finger, 2 sl st)x32, make finger. 1 sc, 3 sc in corner st, 1 sc, sl to next st. (Make finger, 2 sl st)x4, make finger. Bind off.

-Edging
Row 1: Reattach yarn to end of last finger. (2 sc in top of finger, ch 2) to corner.
Corner (This is the most complicated part): Put 2 extra sc in the end of last finger of scarf edge, then put 5 sc along the edge of that finger (halfway down). Turn. Do 5 more rows of sc, ch 10, join to corner of sc section, ch1, turn, 5 sc, turn, do 5 more rows of sc, then join to halfway across opposite finger, and sl st the edge of sc section along side of that finger.

Continue putting two sc in tops of fingers and chaining 2 across, then repeat at the next corner. Then (sc 2, ch 2) across other edge of scarf. Turn.

Row 2: sc across, put 3 sc in the middle stitch of the corner chains.
Row 3: hdc across, put 3 hdc in the middle stitch of corner sections.
Row 4: (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) to corner, put 1 sc on either side of corner stitch and 3 in the corner. (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) across, repeating corner section, then (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) up last edge.
Row 5: hdc across, putting 3 hdc in corner stitches.
Row 6: hdc across, putting 3 hdc in corner stitches. Bind off.

And that’s it! Enjoy!

Catullus and Me

It’s knit in the round for the main body, then halfway bound off and worked back and forth for the front flap.

Windfall – a messenger bag

Here’s the pattern. Finished size is about 14″ x 12″ x 2.5″

Materials:

400 yards worsted weight yarn
100 yards black worsted or bulky weight yarn
Yarn Needle
Size 6 32″ circular knitting needles
Size K crochet hook (For crocheted strap, otherwise you can use needles)
Stitch markers

Abbreviations:

ssk – slip, slip, knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
RTC – Right twist cable. Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in back of work, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.
LTC – Left twist cable. Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in front of work, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.
M1R – Make one right. Lift strand between stitches from the back, knit in the front loop.
M1L – Make one left. Lift strand between stitches from the front, knit in the back loop.
PM – Place marker
SM – Slip marker

Directions:

-Main Body
Cast on 106 stitches to circular needles.
Row 1: (p1, pm, k1, pm, p1, k50) twice
Row 2: repeat row 1, slipping markers instead of placing them
Row 3: (p1, sm, m1r, k to before marker, m1l, sm, p1, k50) twice (3 sts between markers)
Rows 4-5: (p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k50) twice
Rows 6-8: repeat 3-5 (5 sts between markers)
Rows 9-11: repeat 3-5 (7 sts between markers)
Rows 12: repeat row 3 (9 sts between markers)
Repeat row 4 until bag measures 12″ from cast on edge.

-Front Flap
Bind off 72 (up to and including the last purl stitch), removing markers as you go. Turn your work (50 sts on needle)
You should now be facing the wrong side of the work. You will turn after each row from now on.

Row 1 (WS): Knit
Row 2: (RS): k1, purl to last stitch, k1
Row 3: ssk, knit to last two stitches, k2tog
Row 4: k2, purl to last two, k2
Row 5: knit
Row 6: ssk, k2, purl to last 4, k2, k2tog
Row 7: knit
Row 8: k4, purl to last 4, k4
Rows 9-12, repeat 7-8 twice (44 sts on needle)

Start cable pattern:
Row 1: k5, 6 RTC, k to end
Row 2: k5, purl to last 5, k5
Row 3: knit
Row 4: Repeat row 2

Row 5: k8, 5 LTC, k to end
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: knit
Row 8: Repeat row 2

Repeat rows 1-8 4 times, leaving off one cable repeat on the ends of the row 1 and 5 repeats.
I.e., the next time through row 1 and 5, do 5 RTC and 4 LTC, respectively, then 4 RTC and 3 LTC, etc., until you finish a row 8 with 1 LTC.

Then repeat Row 1 again (just one RTC).
Knit 6 rows for the garter edge, then bind off.

-Finishing
Using your yarn needle, sew up the bottom seam. Sew a lining into the bag if you wish.

-Strap
For the strap, I did an 8-stitch band of Tunisian simple stitch for 52″, but you can change the length or stitch as you like. Sew the ends of the strap into the sides of the bag.

Enjoy!

And here’s the Ravelry page for the pattern.

Hipster Finn!

I made a hat, tiny Jake amigurumi and a messenger bag inspired by Finn’s backpack.

Messenger Bag

So here’s my pattern for the bag. It will end up 13.5″ x 12″ x 2″.

Materials:

200 yards dark green worsted weight yarn
200 yards light green worsted weight yarn
100 yards black worsted weight yarn
Yarn Needle
Size 10 knitting needles
Size G crochet hook (For crocheted strap, otherwise you can use needles)

Stiches used:

ssk – slip, slip, knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
thermal stitch (crochet) – insert hook in back loop of current stitch and back loop of stitch on previous row, pull up a loop, then draw a loop through both loops on hook.

Directions:

-Front Panel
Cast on 48 stitches in dark green.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 12 inches (about 60 rows), bind off.

-Back Panel and Front Flap
Cast on 48 stitches in light green.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 12 inches (about 60 rows), ending on a purl row.
Row 61: ssk, k44, k2tog. (46)
Row 62: Purl.
Row 63: ssk, k42, k2tog. (44)
Row 64: Purl.
Row 65: ssk, k40, k2tog. (42)
Knit in stockinette stitch for 3.5 inches.
Knit 1 row in dark green.
Knit 2 rows in light green.
Knit 2 rows in dark green.
Knit 1 row in light green.
Knit in stockinette stitch in dark green for 4 inches, bind off. If you’d like, crochet a single crochet border around the front flap in dark green.

-Gusset Panel
Cast on 8 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 37.5 inches, bind off.

Using your yarn needle, sew together the back panel, gusset panel and front panel. At this point, I sewed a lining into the bag so things wouldn’t fall through the stitching, but it’s not necessary.

-Strap
If knit: Cast on 7 stitches and knit in stockinette or garter stitch for length desired plus 4 inches for stitching to bag and 12 inches for shoulder pad (be sure to accommodate for stretching).
If crochet: Chain 8, insert hook into second loop from hook and sc 7. From there, work in thermal stitch for length desired plus 4 inches for connecting to bag and 12 inches for shoulder pad (and accommodate for stretching).

In the middle of the strap, gather 12 inches of fabric together and fold it back onto itself (so you have a section 6 inches wide and three layers thick. Sew the edges of this section together to make the shoulder pad.

Sew the edges of the strap two inches in on either side of the bag. Done!

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size 6 knitting needles

Pattern:
Cast on 30 stitches
Rows 1-6: K all (6 rows of garter stitch)
Row 7 (RS): K all
Row 8 (WS): K 5, P 25

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until length of square equals length of cast-on edge (i.e. becomes a square). Bind off, block if desired.

Finished Square.

Folded into pocket.