Here is an updated version of my original “Tunisian Cable Hat” pattern from Ravelry. This version has some tips to understanding Tunisian crochet, as well as stitch numbers on every row, and pictures!

Old picture is old.

Materials:
Worsted Weight Yarn
J Hook (Tunisian or regular hook with rubber band stopper)
Another J hook to hold stitches
Tapestry needle

Stitches:
TKS – Tunisian Knit Stitch: Insert hook front-to-back between strands of next vertical bar, pull up a loop.
TPS – Tunisian Purl Stitch: Bring yarn to front of work. Insert hook right to left between strands of next vertical bar, pull up a loop.
LTC – Left Twist Cable: With other hook, TKS 3, leave hook in front of work. With first hook, TKS 3. Slip stitches from second hook onto first hook.
RTC – Right Twist Cable: With other hook, TKS 3, leave hook behind work. With first hook, TKS 3. Slip stitches from second hook onto first hook.

Tunisian Crochet notes:

• A row in Tunisian Crochet is made of 2 passes. A forward pass (where you make the stitches) and a return pass where you bind off the stitches. In this pattern, every return pass is the same: Yarn over and pull through 1, *yarn over and pull through 2* across. Because of this, rows are denoted only by their forward pass.
• Each stitch is made up of a horizontal bar (similar to the V’s of traditional crochet) and a vertical bar comprised of two strands of yarn (a front and back strand).
• A stitch itself is considered to be a horizontal bar and the vertical bar on the LEFT edge of the horizontal bar. Therefore, the vertical bar directly below the first loop is not a stitch.
• The number of horizontal bars tells you how many stitches there are in the row. There will always be one more vertical bar than horizontal bars in a row.
• Don’t turn the work at the end of rows.
• Again, always skip the vertical bar directly below the first loop when starting a row.

Steps:
Ch. 31
Foundation Row (Row 1)
Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook and pull up a loop. *Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop* across. (31 loops on hook)

• Every 11th row is a pickup row.
• At the end of every non-pickup row, ignore the last stitch of the row (i.e. each next row has one less stitch; should look like a staircase)

Row 2
TKS 4, TPS 2, TKS 9, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (30 loops)

Row 3 (Cable Row 1)
TKS 4, TPS 2, RTC, TKS 3, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (29 loops)

Row 4-7
Repeat row 2

Row 8 (Cable Row 2)
TKS 4, TPS 2, TKS 3, LTC, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (24 loops)

Row 9-10
Repeat row 2

Row 11 (Pickup Row)
Repeat row 2 until last stitch of current row, insert hook through last (unworked) stitch of row below, yarn over and draw up a loop.
Draw up a loop through each of the unworked stitches in each row below (10 extra stitches picked up, 31 loops on hook)

Repeat rows 2-11 7 times (81 rows, 8 sections)

Bind off, sew up edges in any way you wish. I recommend the Invisible Horizontal on Stockinette Stitch.

Posted in: Knit and Crochet