My first poem in Spanish. It’s a double dactyl, an ostensibly English form. This was quite the challenge but it was very fun to write.

—-
El Ratoncito (The Little Mouse)

“Cállate, cállate!”
dijo por último,
“Consideremos la
alegación.”

Lo que parece es
(desentrañándolo)
no le dio daño a
ese ratón.

“Íquiti, Íquiti”
dijo ratón con su
rueda de queso. ¿Yo
tengo razón?

“Todo que dije fue,”
(desesperándose):
“¡Voy a matarlo el
pinche cabrón!”

—-
-Translated-
The Little Mouse

“Quiet, quiet!”
he said finally,
“Let’s consider
the allegation.”

What it appears is
(getting to the bottom of things)
he did not hurt
that mouse.

“Squeak, squeak!”
said the mouse with your
wheel of cheese.
Am I right?

“All that I said was:”
(filling with despair)
“I’m gonna kill that
%!~$&# ?&#^%!!”

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Higgledy-piggledy
Dactylic poetry:
Read, and I promise it
won’t be unclear.

This is a form that is
lexolinguistically
challenging, that’s why I
hold it so dear.

-

Pittery-pattery
Meaningless syllables,
That’s what you write on the
very first line.

If you get writer’s block,
semi-relatedly,
any nonsensical
rambling is fine.

-

Clippity-clappety
This is the subject line.
Always the second in
stanza the first.

Rules, regulations, and
Predictability’s
why all these verses sound
super rehearsed.

-

Blibbety-blabbity
Meter and prosody
Tougher to master than
trying to learn.

Stanzas consisting of
Tri-double-dactyly
ending with choriamb.
Now it’s your turn!

-

Siddily-soddily
Line-ending melody
Not so constrained that it
eats up your time

Both of the choriambs
characteristically
happen to end with a
masculine rhyme.

-

Riggedy-raggedy
Hexasyllabic rule:
This is the last bit of
knowledge, my friend.

You should start brainstorming
sesquipedalian
words for the second verse.
This is the end.

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I’ve recently fallen in love with Super Hexagon, a minimalist action game by Terry Cavanagh. After playing the game, I’ve realized that the overall geometry of the game (read: hexagons) lends itself very well to crochet!

This idea actually sprouts from a common technique used to crochet circles. Imagine a circle made of discrete stitches. As you crochet around the circle, you’ll eventually have to make more stitches along the circumference if you want it to lie flat (i.e., radius gets bigger, you need to place more stitches around the outside. The places where you create more stitches are called increases). If you place your increases at the same point on the circle every time (e.g. 0 degrees, 60 degrees, 120 degrees, 180 degrees, 240 degrees, and 300 degrees), it’ll be very easy to remember where to place them, but your shape will end up a hexagon. For small numbers of rows, the stitches will bunch up and look like a circle, but if you continue further and further out, you’ll see the delineations. I’ve played on this effect to recreate a level from Super Hexagon.

Time Spent:
Two weekends (marathoning It’s Always Sunny and Parks & Rec on Netflix!)

Materials Used:
18 skeins of Lamb’s Pride Bulky yarn in Cream, Victorian Pink and Lotus Pink
Size M crochet hook

Total Cost of Materials:
~$200

Pictures!

Super Hexagon Blanket!

Draped over the couch

It’s very warm!

This was my biggest project I’ve ever crocheted, and one of the most fun! Now it’s time to rest my hands.

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The doctor sits me down and tells me he’ll be back soon. I stare at the posters on the wall as I wait. I see advertisements for all kinds of cures and medicines. I hope that this injection can solve my problems. The doctor returns a few minutes later holding a large needle. I heave a deep sigh as he prepares my upper arm and injects me. There, it’s done. That wasn’t so bad. The doctor hands me some pamphlets and tells me the injection should take effect shortly.

“Talk to Gina at the front desk for payment information,” says the doctor as he heads back to his office.

A while later I’m on the street walking back home. I cough. I cover my mouth and keep walking. The injection should take effect shortly. The doctor’s voice echoes through my head. I cough again. My eyes start to water. I pass by a young couple as another coughing fit hits me. I turn my head to them and cough directly in their faces. Tears roll down my face as I hand them a pamphlet, sobbing. The large caption in front reads: “Feeling ill? We can help. -Viratech Pharmaceuticals.”

Deep in my heart I want to apologize, but I have a family to support, and the young couple has already run off, disgusted and cursing. Besides, what can I do? A job’s a job, and viral marketing is all the rage this year.

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It was 6 p.m. on a rainy Saturday night.

The machine in front of them let out a loud beep.

Finally the voice spoke again. “I hope that everything will work out better next time.”

“What does he mean by that, Jake?” asked Sharon. She got no response.

“If anyone’s listening to this, it works. I’ve found my second chance. I have to do this,” said the voice, the static from the recorder getting stronger.

Sitting across from each other, Jake and Sharon listened to the recorded voice of their friend Ian. It spoke of complex science they couldn’t understand, and was interspersed with bouts of static. This was the last clue they had of the whereabouts of their friend.

Jake reached for the tape recorder and pressed the play/pause button. Sharon sat with her arms around her knees, staring back at Jake.

Holding the case in his hands, Jake examined the interior. It was empty save for a tape recorder and a peculiar looking device attached to the inside. It was covered in wires and electrical components which cradled a single button. Jake pressed it, but nothing happened.

“Still no luck,” said Jake, “I hope Ian’s all right, this was all I could find in his office.”

“What about his advisor? He still hasn’t seen Ian since that storm last weekend?”

“No one that I talked to has seen him recently,” said Jake, placing the case on the table between them, “I thought this might be helpful.” The light shining through the window bounced off the metal facets of the case exterior and danced in Sharon’s anxious eyes.

“What is that?” asked Sharon.

Jake walked in carrying a small metal case.

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It is getting colder and I had a bunch of extra tweed, so I made a new scarf. This one is an architectural, masculine pattern that I’ve named after the Latin poet Catullus. Here’s the link to the Ravelry page. Pattern is below.

Catullus

Materials:

450 yards DK weight yarn
Size G crochet hook

Abbreviations:

Sl st – Slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – Half double crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase (two hdc in one)
sk – skip a stitch
make finger – chain 12, insert hook into third chain from hook, 10 dc, sk 2, join with sl st.

Directions:

-Main Body
The main body is a trapezoid shape with a three eyelet rows that starts from the smaller edge of the trapezoid.
Chain 163 plus 2 for turning chain (doesn’t count as first stitch.)
This pattern uses a turning chain of 2
Row 1: hdc all
Row 2-3: inc, hdc to last st, inc, turn
Row 4: inc, (ch1, sk1, hdc) to last two stitches, ch1, sk1, inc.
Row 5-8: repeat row 2
Row 9: repeat row 4
Row 10-13: repeat row 2
Row 14: repeat row 4
Row 15-18: repeat row 2
Do not turn at the end of row 18.
Row 19: Put 18 sc along the edge of the scarf, 3 sc in the first stitch of the starting chain, 1 sc along each of the starting chain stitches, 3 stitches in the last chain, then 18 stitches up the other side. Turn.

-Start fingers
Finger row: (Make finger, 2 sl st)x4, make finger. 1 sc, 3 sc in corner st, 1 sc, slip to next st. (Make finger, 2 sl st)x32, make finger. 1 sc, 3 sc in corner st, 1 sc, sl to next st. (Make finger, 2 sl st)x4, make finger. Bind off.

-Edging
Row 1: Reattach yarn to end of last finger. (2 sc in top of finger, ch 2) to corner.
Corner (This is the most complicated part): Put 2 extra sc in the end of last finger of scarf edge, then put 5 sc along the edge of that finger (halfway down). Turn. Do 5 more rows of sc, ch 10, join to corner of sc section, ch1, turn, 5 sc, turn, do 5 more rows of sc, then join to halfway across opposite finger, and sl st the edge of sc section along side of that finger.

Continue putting two sc in tops of fingers and chaining 2 across, then repeat at the next corner. Then (sc 2, ch 2) across other edge of scarf. Turn.

Row 2: sc across, put 3 sc in the middle stitch of the corner chains.
Row 3: hdc across, put 3 hdc in the middle stitch of corner sections.
Row 4: (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) to corner, put 1 sc on either side of corner stitch and 3 in the corner. (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) across, repeating corner section, then (2 hdc, ch 2, sk 2) up last edge.
Row 5: hdc across, putting 3 hdc in corner stitches.
Row 6: hdc across, putting 3 hdc in corner stitches. Bind off.

And that’s it! Enjoy!

Catullus and Me

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It’s time I made another messenger bag. It’s been almost a month since I made my Finn bag and I’m still carrying it around. It’s the equivalent of leaving your Christmas lights up in January. Anywho, I call this bag Windfall, and it’s main attraction is that it’s made in one piece, and is adorned with a tight cable pattern, reminiscent of weaving or entrelac.

It’s knit in the round for the main body, then halfway bound off and worked back and forth for the front flap.

Windfall – a messenger bag

Here’s the pattern. Finished size is about 14″ x 12″ x 2.5″

Materials:

400 yards worsted weight yarn
100 yards black worsted or bulky weight yarn
Yarn Needle
Size 6 32″ circular knitting needles
Size K crochet hook (For crocheted strap, otherwise you can use needles)
Stitch markers

Abbreviations:

ssk – slip, slip, knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
RTC – Right twist cable. Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in back of work, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.
LTC – Left twist cable. Slip 3 to cable needle, hold in front of work, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle.
M1R – Make one right. Lift strand between stitches from the back, knit in the front loop.
M1L – Make one left. Lift strand between stitches from the front, knit in the back loop.
PM – Place marker
SM – Slip marker

Directions:

-Main Body
Cast on 106 stitches to circular needles.
Row 1: (p1, pm, k1, pm, p1, k50) twice
Row 2: repeat row 1, slipping markers instead of placing them
Row 3: (p1, sm, m1r, k to before marker, m1l, sm, p1, k50) twice (3 sts between markers)
Rows 4-5: (p1, sm, k to marker, sm, p1, k50) twice
Rows 6-8: repeat 3-5 (5 sts between markers)
Rows 9-11: repeat 3-5 (7 sts between markers)
Rows 12: repeat row 3 (9 sts between markers)
Repeat row 4 until bag measures 12″ from cast on edge.

-Front Flap
Bind off 72 (up to and including the last purl stitch), removing markers as you go. Turn your work (50 sts on needle)
You should now be facing the wrong side of the work. You will turn after each row from now on.

Row 1 (WS): Knit
Row 2: (RS): k1, purl to last stitch, k1
Row 3: ssk, knit to last two stitches, k2tog
Row 4: k2, purl to last two, k2
Row 5: knit
Row 6: ssk, k2, purl to last 4, k2, k2tog
Row 7: knit
Row 8: k4, purl to last 4, k4
Rows 9-12, repeat 7-8 twice (44 sts on needle)

Start cable pattern:
Row 1: k5, 6 RTC, k to end
Row 2: k5, purl to last 5, k5
Row 3: knit
Row 4: Repeat row 2

Row 5: k8, 5 LTC, k to end
Row 6: Repeat row 2
Row 7: knit
Row 8: Repeat row 2

Repeat rows 1-8 4 times, leaving off one cable repeat on the ends of the row 1 and 5 repeats.
I.e., the next time through row 1 and 5, do 5 RTC and 4 LTC, respectively, then 4 RTC and 3 LTC, etc., until you finish a row 8 with 1 LTC.

Then repeat Row 1 again (just one RTC).
Knit 6 rows for the garter edge, then bind off.

-Finishing
Using your yarn needle, sew up the bottom seam. Sew a lining into the bag if you wish.

-Strap
For the strap, I did an 8-stitch band of Tunisian simple stitch for 52″, but you can change the length or stitch as you like. Sew the ends of the strap into the sides of the bag.

Enjoy!

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For Halloween this year I’m gonna be Finn from Adventure Time. Here’s my interpretation of it.

And here’s the Ravelry page for the pattern.

Hipster Finn!

I made a hat, tiny Jake amigurumi and a messenger bag inspired by Finn’s backpack.

Messenger Bag

So here’s my pattern for the bag. It will end up 13.5″ x 12″ x 2″.

Materials:

200 yards dark green worsted weight yarn
200 yards light green worsted weight yarn
100 yards black worsted weight yarn
Yarn Needle
Size 10 knitting needles
Size G crochet hook (For crocheted strap, otherwise you can use needles)

Stiches used:

ssk – slip, slip, knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
thermal stitch (crochet) – insert hook in back loop of current stitch and back loop of stitch on previous row, pull up a loop, then draw a loop through both loops on hook.

Directions:

-Front Panel
Cast on 48 stitches in dark green.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 12 inches (about 60 rows), bind off.

-Back Panel and Front Flap
Cast on 48 stitches in light green.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 12 inches (about 60 rows), ending on a purl row.
Row 61: ssk, k44, k2tog. (46)
Row 62: Purl.
Row 63: ssk, k42, k2tog. (44)
Row 64: Purl.
Row 65: ssk, k40, k2tog. (42)
Knit in stockinette stitch for 3.5 inches.
Knit 1 row in dark green.
Knit 2 rows in light green.
Knit 2 rows in dark green.
Knit 1 row in light green.
Knit in stockinette stitch in dark green for 4 inches, bind off. If you’d like, crochet a single crochet border around the front flap in dark green.

-Gusset Panel
Cast on 8 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 37.5 inches, bind off.

Using your yarn needle, sew together the back panel, gusset panel and front panel. At this point, I sewed a lining into the bag so things wouldn’t fall through the stitching, but it’s not necessary.

-Strap
If knit: Cast on 7 stitches and knit in stockinette or garter stitch for length desired plus 4 inches for stitching to bag and 12 inches for shoulder pad (be sure to accommodate for stretching).
If crochet: Chain 8, insert hook into second loop from hook and sc 7. From there, work in thermal stitch for length desired plus 4 inches for connecting to bag and 12 inches for shoulder pad (and accommodate for stretching).

In the middle of the strap, gather 12 inches of fabric together and fold it back onto itself (so you have a section 6 inches wide and three layers thick. Sew the edges of this section together to make the shoulder pad.

Sew the edges of the strap two inches in on either side of the bag. Done!

//Posted in: Knit and Crochet / Uncategorized
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I didn’t have any pocket squares to go with my sport coats, so I wrote up this pattern. This creates a 6″ square with a double garter stitch edge.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size 6 knitting needles

Pattern:
Cast on 30 stitches
Rows 1-6: K all (6 rows of garter stitch)
Row 7 (RS): K all
Row 8 (WS): K 5, P 25

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until length of square equals length of cast-on edge (i.e. becomes a square). Bind off, block if desired.

Finished Square.

Folded into pocket.

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Here is an updated version of my original “Tunisian Cable Hat” pattern from Ravelry. This version has some tips to understanding Tunisian crochet, as well as stitch numbers on every row, and pictures!

Old picture is old.

Materials:
Worsted Weight Yarn
J Hook (Tunisian or regular hook with rubber band stopper)
Another J hook to hold stitches
Tapestry needle

Stitches:
TKS – Tunisian Knit Stitch: Insert hook front-to-back between strands of next vertical bar, pull up a loop.
TPS – Tunisian Purl Stitch: Bring yarn to front of work. Insert hook right to left between strands of next vertical bar, pull up a loop.
LTC – Left Twist Cable: With other hook, TKS 3, leave hook in front of work. With first hook, TKS 3. Slip stitches from second hook onto first hook.
RTC – Right Twist Cable: With other hook, TKS 3, leave hook behind work. With first hook, TKS 3. Slip stitches from second hook onto first hook.

Tunisian Crochet notes:

• A row in Tunisian Crochet is made of 2 passes. A forward pass (where you make the stitches) and a return pass where you bind off the stitches. In this pattern, every return pass is the same: Yarn over and pull through 1, *yarn over and pull through 2* across. Because of this, rows are denoted only by their forward pass.
• Each stitch is made up of a horizontal bar (similar to the V’s of traditional crochet) and a vertical bar comprised of two strands of yarn (a front and back strand).
• A stitch itself is considered to be a horizontal bar and the vertical bar on the LEFT edge of the horizontal bar. Therefore, the vertical bar directly below the first loop is not a stitch.
• The number of horizontal bars tells you how many stitches there are in the row. There will always be one more vertical bar than horizontal bars in a row.
• Don’t turn the work at the end of rows.
• Again, always skip the vertical bar directly below the first loop when starting a row.

Steps:
Ch. 31
Foundation Row (Row 1)
Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook and pull up a loop. *Insert hook in next chain and pull up a loop* across. (31 loops on hook)

• Every 11th row is a pickup row.
• At the end of every non-pickup row, ignore the last stitch of the row (i.e. each next row has one less stitch; should look like a staircase)

Row 2
TKS 4, TPS 2, TKS 9, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (30 loops)

Row 3 (Cable Row 1)
TKS 4, TPS 2, RTC, TKS 3, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (29 loops)

Row 4-7
Repeat row 2

Row 8 (Cable Row 2)
TKS 4, TPS 2, TKS 3, LTC, TPS 2, TKS to second to last stitch; ignore last stitch. (24 loops)

Row 9-10
Repeat row 2

Row 11 (Pickup Row)
Repeat row 2 until last stitch of current row, insert hook through last (unworked) stitch of row below, yarn over and draw up a loop.
Draw up a loop through each of the unworked stitches in each row below (10 extra stitches picked up, 31 loops on hook)

Repeat rows 2-11 7 times (81 rows, 8 sections)

Bind off, sew up edges in any way you wish. I recommend the Invisible Horizontal on Stockinette Stitch.

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